Tags
Chimney Rock, Coal Trains, Courthouse Rock, Jail Rock, Nebraska, Runzas, Sandhills, Scotts Bluff
HELLO EVERYONE!! Nope, we did not fall off a cliff and yes this is an Ed & Marti on the road blog post, but first apologies and explanations 😊 Those of you who follow us might remember that last spring (2018) we were in Utah when Ed had emergency surgery in Provo for a detached retina. Our son Kevin and DIL Za bought their first house in the middle of all this. A fixer-upper in Washington D.C. with a lot more fixer than anticipated. Ed, in particular, was very frustrated he was not there to help or at least commiserate in person. (Right off they tackled the biggest problems themselves, handled them very well and will someday with more work have a real gem.) After clearance from the Utah surgeon we booked home, checked in with a D.C. cataract surgeon (a guarantee to be needed after detached retina surgery) and headed north to mostly Quebec, Lake Superior, and the Michigan Upper Peninsula. Back home in the early fall of 2018, Ed had successful cataract surgery as expected. While traveling we have always kept an eye on land and houses back home. This time however we both acknowledged that unexpected health issues that have brought us home over the 4 years on the road, an OK but not wonderful summer of travel, missing our children and friends and just not having a true home with our stuff, had finally weighed too heavily. After a lot of intense looking, we bought a house in Adamstown, Md pretty much in our life long stompin’ grounds. SO… the reason we’ve not been blogging is because we’ve been painting, building walls, tearing out fireplaces, oh and more painting, etc. etc. But now we are out on the road again in our beloved Whack-A-Mole Wheels for we figure 2 ½ months. We’ve got our fingers crossed you’ll forgive us for “disappearing” and that you’ll once again enjoy riding along on our adventures!!
After a quick visit in Sharonville (Cincinnati) with sister Judy, we headed for Nebraska. ONE, because finishing the Utah trip that was interrupted is our main goal and Nebraska is on the way; TWO, because we’ve not seen the rocks this post is about, and THREE, our kids say we have to try Nebraska Runzas.

Runza…..Google it. Pretty good actually, but only when in Nebraska.
On Interstate 80 after Des Moines, the countryside changes becoming more hilly. Continuing on the hills get big and this time of year with the ever-present corn fully grown, the steepness of the hills and the terracing of the fields is more evident. Being folks who like farm country we found it very pretty. We spent the night at Prairie Oasis Campground in Henderson and found it fine for the night, albeit a bit pricey. I will say that looking as we drove past Mormon Island State Rec Area in Grand Island, we should have stayed there!
Next morning at Grand Island we took RT. 2 West. At first, it’s just corn and soybeans, mostly corn, which looks really sad. Clearly too much water and this part of the state wasn’t as hard hit with rain as other parts. Don’t let anyone ever tell you farming is easy. After a while, the hills start and as we come into the Nebraska Sandhills the crops stop. Designated a National Natural Landmark in 1984 the Sandhills cover about a quarter of the state. Mixed grasses covering these sand dunes anchor them naturally. To our surprise, the Sandhills is the largest and most intricate wetland ecosystem in the country with thousands of ponds, lakes, the Loup and Niobrara Rivers, and the Ogallala Aquifer, one of the world’s largest, underneath. The fragility of the sand makes it unusable for crops, but cattle, originally longhorns and now (by our observation) mostly Angus are raised across this landscape.

Black Angus cattle in the Sand Hills. These hills may exceed 330 feet tall. Many of them are clearly sand dunes, others just look like rolling hills.

The other thing that is seen in vast numbers is freight trains, apparently mostly carrying coal east or deadheading west.
It is huge, empty and beautiful. It’s quite unique, so for that reason put it on your MVL (Must Visit List)
Our stop for the next two nights was at Robidoux RV Park in Gering (recommended but bring your bug spray ☹). The RV park has a nice view of the reason for our visit… Scotts Bluff.

Shot from the trail we walked down, Scotts Bluff is on the right.
Named after Rocky Mountain Fur Company clerk, Hiram Scott, who had the misfortune of dying near this impressive rock, Scotts Bluff can be seen for miles on the eastern flat prairie. In fact, it is the second most mentioned landmark in pioneer journals and diaries.

From the trail on top of Scotts Bluff, you can look out across the Nebraska prairie and clearly see (ignore the smog) how this pile of rocks really stood out as a landmark to immigrants.
The gap between the two prominent bluffs, Scotts to the north and South Bluff, to the south 😊 was actually too difficult to traverse. The Oregon Trail went to the south and the Mormon Trail went to the north around both piles of rocks. However, in 1850 a road was constructed between the two and later named the Mitchell Pass, which became the preferred route for both the Oregon and California Trails by 1851. The Mormons stayed on their northern trail.

The trail was a little rougher than this looks and not paved with asphalt.

The Park Service has a free shuttle to the top of Scotts Bluff which we took. Then we walked the 1.6 mile long trail back down. Interestingly, the shuttle road goes through the only three tunnels in all of Nebraska!

That does not count the fourth tunnel that you can only walk through.
The number one most mentioned pioneer landmark was Chimney Rock.

Chimney Rock, this is as close as you can now get.
The Oregon, California and Mormon Trails run to the north of this nearly 300 foot tall spire. Based on drawings (which can be seen at the visitor center) and written reports the “elk penis” as it was referred to by the Lakota Sioux (who had never seen a chimney) has been eroded a good bit over the years.
Just a few miles away in the Pumpkin Valley we drove out to see Courthouse and Jail Rocks. Mentioned by hundreds of westbound immigrants these two prominent rock formations were also landmarks for the nearby Oregon, California and Mormon Trails, as well as the Pony Express.

Courthouse Rock on the right and Jail Rock on the left. We haven’t done a lot of research and we don’t know why it’s called Jail Rock and but Courthouse had other names, such as Castle Rock, however, they are nice rocks and you can’t miss them.
Traveling west is easy now. In fact, it is SO EASY, we highly recommend if you are coming this way, put these places on your MVL and take some time to ruminate on what these men, women, and children faced and overcame. Pretty damned impressive!!

While the number of cattle ranches is actually down, there are still large spreads. We decided that Mr. Hardy’s Turkey Track entrance was lovely enough for our blog.

The wild sunflowers blanket this part of Nebraska.

Ed counting train cars. 135 not including the engines of which there were four. Interestingly, this train is the same length as those passing our new home in Adamstown.

White Pelicans are common in this part of the country. Who knew?

From Scotts Bluff looking down to the Visitor Center which is just before the gap and South Bluff is beyond. Pretty place.

This ridge is where the footpath tunnel cuts through. The tunnel is only about 30 feet long and that’s how wide (narrow) this piece of rock is. The path in the center points to the tunnel.

Along the path, it looks narrow and scary but it’s not. This is the path referred to in the above photo with the tunnel entrance behind you.

More trail heading down.

Back at the top the black pipe coming out of the rock was placed even with the surface level of the rock in 1933 and now shows the effect of erosion on this very soft rock over the last 86 years.

In the Chimney Rock Visitor’s Center, there is a spotting scope trained on the tip of the rock. They suggest and Marti tried to put her phone at the eyepiece to take a photo. It worked pretty well. The three small protrusions at the top are juniper trees growing out of the side.

Whack-A-Mole Wheels leaves Courthouse and Jail Rock for Wyoming. Wait ’til you see those photos! Safe Travels and we thank you for sticking with us!
Looking good Ed and Marti! Now googling runza…
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Glad to have you back. Hope your travels are as beautiful as the Landscape. Come for a visit if you can sometime.
Love you,
BooBoo and Mike
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We will, we will… 😉
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Glad everything worked out with Ed’s surgery and happy to see you all back on the road posting great pictures. Thank you! Brice Halbrook
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Wishing you guys happy trails! Very interesting read and love the pictures!
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Welcome back, missed you two.
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Absolutely beautiful….Love all of the scenery and thanks for bringing it to us….The Pioneers had to be really tough folks and to think they crossed the country on foot and wagons….
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Wack a Mole wheels rides agaim
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We camp next to you in the UP on your way home. Glad to see your back on the road and all is well. Safe travels
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Good to see you traveling again. We’re currently in Duckinson, ND for a few days.
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Lovely to hear from you Michele! Hope your trip was as fun as ours was.
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So glad to hear from you.We know how health issues can affect everything.
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Hey Marti and Ed, glad to see you back on the road. Look forward to the next posting. Safe travels! If you get to New Mexico, we’re just just north of Albuquerque. Would love to see you.
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Love you commentary and the photos. You are seeing so much of this wonderful country! I am a wee bit envious but mostly so appreciative of your sharing the travels with us!
Of course we all miss you back here in Maryland!
Beverley
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I’m happy to see that you’re on the road again. I thought you may have settled down during your “posts” absence, and I’m also happy to read that the eye surgeries went well. You’ll laugh when you read that I’ve been in Omaha for a week, and yes, I’ve had my Runza “fix” twice in that time. Bruce arrives tomorrow, then we’re off to a family reunion in Iowa on Sunday. We’ll scatter the ashes of one of my younger brothers this week, then we’ll jet back to San Diego and Bruce will resume teaching for the fall semester at SDSU. Have a blast on the road. -Jacque ________________________________
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So glad to see you all are back on the “road” – Always enjoy traveling with you both! Safe journey and I look forward to the Wyoming update (one of the best places on earth) Love you! Shelley
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