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Arizona ~ Old and New Favorite Places

17 Sunday Jun 2018

Posted by Ed and Marti Kirkpatrick in Bushes and Blooms, Travels

≈ 11 Comments

Tags

#Prescott Arizona, Arizona, Bonito Campground, boondocking, Catalina State Park, Flagstaff, Lowell Observatory, Sunset Crater, Tucson, Wupatki

Hi there~ It has been many weeks since our last post but we have excuses 🙂 Our main plan for this summer’s adventure is what I have been calling the “middle bits”.  The areas of southern Utah: Bryce, Grand Staircase – Escalante, Capital Reef, Canyonlands, Arches, Moab and on north somewhere.  WELLLL… even though this post isn’t about any of those places, we have in fact done a bit of the above and there will be a post about that coming soon along with Ed’s wonderful photos.  The excuse for the delay is twofold. First, southern Utah is for all practical purposes off the grid (cell phones included) and we couldn’t do a post. And second, there’s the issue of Ed’s totally unexpected emergency detached retina eye surgery complete with a 2-week restriction on not only travel but reading and using his laptop!  So apologies for the delay and we hope you enjoy the below 🙂  Oh, and yes he’s doing well thank you!                                       *************************************************************

After a quiet night’s sleep at Black Jack Campground we headed on down Rt 78 which for a ways goes through some pretty mountain country

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78 outside of Blackjack and the forest.

but soon opens up and isn’t as nice. We picked up US 191 heading for Safford, (which is sorry to say downright ugly) and then onto Interstate 10.  We had planned to drop south to one of our favorite places, Bisbee, AZ  but when I phoned the campground in town they said they were completely booked.  Soooo we decided to head on to Oro Valley just north of Tucson and one of our other favorite spots, Catalina State Park, but when I phoned they also were full!  Our nonstop good luck seemed to be on hold, (it was Friday night and weekends are often busier) so we headed for Gilbert Ray Campground just west of Tucson where it’s first come first served and we hoped not full.

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Just behind our campsite at Gilbert Ray where it was not full, but in fact almost empty.  Over in front of those mountains is Old Tucson which was built to make movies and has only expanded and grown with many more movies and TV shows. You can take a tour but we didn’t.

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We took a short walk at Gilbert Ray to enjoy the cacti just coming into bloom.  This is a Cholla (choyya) a group of cactus that is perhaps Marti’s favorite.

Every time we’ve been in the Tucson area we’ve planned to go to the Pima Air & Space Museum not for the museum as much as the airplane boneyard.  This time, other than new tennis shoes for me that was the only thing specifically on our MVL (Must Visit List).   We have really been enjoying not planning things out much (or at all) this year but sometimes a little advance research is highly recommended.  Turns out one CAN NOT visit without a 10 BUSINESS DAY ADVANCE REGISTRATION!!!  We have NO IDEA what this is about but find it absolutely ridiculous.  Consequently, it will remain on our MVL for another time.  😦

We ran errands, did some shopping, (did not find my tennis shoes at Fleet Feet but they’re on hold for me in Scottsdale), and had a good steak dinner at The Keg where we always go when in Catalina, where a camping spot had opened up on Saturday 🙂  Interesting side note:  The Keg was the name of a steak restaurant we went to in St. John’s, Newfoundland last summer, so we did some checking.  Not only are they the same, it’s a Canadian company.  The one in Oro Valley is better 🙂

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Other than hiking, our favorite thing to do at Catalina is to watch the stars come out and if we are there at the right time of the month, the moonrise over the Santa Catalina Mountains. For my photographer friends, this is hand-held at 1/10 second ISO 1600, just sayin’. 🙂

Wanting to get on north but also working out a plan to catch up with fellow RV full-timer friend Suzanne (who we last saw in St. John’s) we headed for Prescott another of our favorite places.

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Looking back towards Thumb Butte (on the right) and the Prescott Valley on the left we took a little walk one day.

We did a couple of our usuals, Bill’s Pizza, the Phippen Museum plus a nice visit with Suzanne and then headed for Flagstaff, one of my favorite places.

In Flagstaff, we did a few errands, had lunch at the Bun Huggers which was recommended on roadfood.com… don’t bother, it’s just a very mediocre burger and then went to see the Lowell Observatory.  This place has been on our list each time we’ve visited Flagstaff and since we’ve managed to do a couple of “looking at space” things this trip we made sure to go.  The very wealthy Percival Lowell was awarded a Harvard degree with distinction in mathematics in 1876 and then went on to running a cotton mill for 6 years.  For most of the 1880’s he traveled and lived in the Far East returning to the US in 1893. Fascinated with Mars and wanting to study it extensively, he selected a site (the first time anyone had purposely done so) with elevation, remote and most always clear skies and established his personal observatory at Flagstaff, Arizona Territory in 1894.

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The 13″ Astrograph, a type of telescope used to take pictures only was used to discover Pluto in 1930. Note the wooden film plate at the bottom.

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An 11×14 BW film was used by Clyde Tombaugh in 1930 to make comparative images to note that what turned out to be the object we call Pluto was moving across the star field which does not move.

A note about camping in the Flagstaff area:  The first night we checked a couple boondocking areas.  Probably in response to the fire ban and extreme dry conditions we found that a number of the forest service roads, including FS 6051 were blocked.  We did go out an unmarked FS road (off Snow Bowl Rd) where we saw a couple of folks but it was VERY rough and VERY unlevel.

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We did enjoy the drive up the Snow Bowl road to over 9000 ft. elevation and the ski area where there was not quite enough snow to ski down the mountain.

 

We also checked the boondocking site over by Walnut Canyon and it’s not very level and not pretty, so not for us. We did stay in a spot way out the fairly rough Naval Observatory Road that worked, but I would not take anything much bigger than us past the first section.

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Tucked in the trees off of Naval Observatory road we boondocked overnight and Ed discovered a set of handcuffs burned up in the firepit.  I kid you not!

Next morning we had a check engine light on and very little power but it was Sunday and Mercedes-Benz of Flagstaff was closed. We checked into Greer’s Pine Shadows where we stayed once before.  NEVER stay here!!  They have no dump station, no showers or bathrooms, sites are tight, mostly permanent folks…. we knew all that from before, but we needed a place.  We set up and after a bit Ed went out, raised the hood and checked the oil dip stick and put it back.  He had no tools out anywhere just a rag in his hand as he stood looking at the engine.  A man from the office (across from us) comes blasting out the door screaming at Ed that they don’t allow any mechanical work being done.  Ed say’s “I’m just looking at my engine!”  This jerk yells “Don’t give me no lip, I’m the manager and I’ll throw your ass out of here!”  Ed, pretty sure the guy might slug him next, shuts the hood and comes in the RV.

Next morning first thing, we drove to Mercedes-Benz of Flagstaff, getting there just after they opened. They said they make a point of trying to get travelers in and out fast.  They not only get to us faster than they said they could, they diagnosed the problem, fixed it for cheaper than we expected and sent us on our way.  Good folks!

We stayed the next couple of nights at the NFS Bonito Campground just outside of Sunset Crater.  It is a wonderful, dry, first come first served campground, where there are water spigots, nice bathrooms and very few folks, at least when we were there. 🙂

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Our camping spot next to the lava field at Bonito Campground.  

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That knob on the right between the trees is Sunset Crater in the setting Sun. This short walk is just beyond our campsite.  

We had explored the Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument following the 35-mile loop road around to the far end at Wupatki National Monument back in 2015.  This time we explored the ruins of Wupatki and suggest them, and this whole area, for your MVL.

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The Citadel is the first large ruin one comes to on the loop road from the north entrance. On top of a small hill with a view of the surrounding countryside, 800 years ago the Sinagua culture lived here.

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Looking out from atop the Citadel there are in this photograph ruins of eight other smaller pueblos.  Yes, Marti found them but they are very hard to spot.

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Further down the loop road, Marti walked out to the two dwellings on either side of Box Canyon.  The San Francisco Mountains and Humphrey’s Peak are in the background.

Note: Since we were here and in the last couple of weeks a great deal of Arizona including areas covered in this post are under complete fire bans including camping and hiking due to the extreme drought.




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78 continues beautifully down to the valley and the unfortunately ugly Safford, Arizona.  

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Yet another kind of cholla budding into flower at Gilbert Ray.

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Guess what…?  more Cholla. There are so many different varieties.

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Most plants in the desert can hurt you a little or a lot, but the flowers are magnificent.

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The tall cacti, Suguaro are one our favorites because their expressive arm contortions are so much fun and now they even have flowers.  This is the first time we have seen them in bloom.

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Thumb Butte in the distance west of Prescott, Arizona.

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If you just go for a small walk out of the campground into the forest and the wonderful lava fields at Bonito, particularly as the Sun is setting, you too can revel in the beauty left by the incredible forces of Mother Earth.

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Such peace many centuries after such violence.

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A short hike into the cinders. Life returns via a bazillion pine cones.

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Marti sees creatures everywhere.  Ed, however, being more practical wonders who or what is under that big volcanic rock that fell out of the sky one day about 900 years ago.

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Further beyond the Box Canyon dwellings is the beautiful Lomaki Pueblo.

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Taken from the Wupaki National Monument loop road, the San Francisco Mountains with Flagstaff, Arizona and the Snow Bowl ski area on the other side.

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Wukoki Pueblo. Occupied from between 1120 and 1210 AD this unusual three-story tall pueblo sits atop Moenkopi Sandstone.

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It is hard at first to visually discern where the natural stone outcropping ends and the cut stone masonry begins.  The precision stonework is astonishing.  Perfectly square, plumb corners, built by “primitive” people. They must have had some understanding of basic geometry.

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Pardon Mart’s butt.

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Room interior that shows holes for floor/ceiling joists in the tower room.

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Remaining wood from the poles used as joists.

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Wupatki Pueblo. The largest complex in the area.

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Comprising over 100 rooms, a community room and a ball court, Wupatki is an extremely well preserved and extensive complex.

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We say goodbye for now as Ed enjoys his wine while cooking dinner and watching the Sun set.

Arizona and Unfriendly Weather

20 Wednesday Jan 2016

Posted by Ed and Marti Kirkpatrick in Bushes and Blooms, Travels

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Ajo, Arizona, Bisbee Arizona, Catalina State Park, Mt. Lemmon, Organ Pipe Cactus, Picacho Peak

Ed and I have joked for years that we’re a bad/weird weather magnet.  Back in the 70’s when we tent camped a lot it always seemed to rain or snow on us and last year we often seemed to drag rain and snow along with us, but of course southern California loved us.  This year it seems abnormally cold temperatures are the camping surprise we’re dealing with.  In fact the temps were so cold and windy heading out of Texas into New Mexico and Arizona that we fled to the border with California in a 3 day hard driving marathon. Landing on Christmas Eve at Cattail Cove State Park just outside Lake Havasu City, AZ we settled in for a few days of wind and cold nights.  While like all the Arizona State Parks we’ve stayed at, Cattail Cove is very nice and we did see a Big Horn Sheep, neither of us sees much point in making this area a destination. 20151227-_EKP4670 Lake Havasu City was developer Robert McCulloch’s dream based on the recreational draw of the dammed Colorado River and The London Bridge which he purchased, disassembled, shipped and reassembled here as a tourist attraction in 1971. I remember we laughed about this when it happened, and now that we’ve seen it we’re still shaking our heads.20151227-_EKP4665-Pano

We had a looming problem in that our little home’s engine was way overdue for its 40,000 mile check-up and being a Mercedes Benz with each additional 20 miles it beeped and sent us a “HEY” message.  We contacted the nearest California MB Sprinter dealers and they said nope, no RV’s can’t help you or sure, in a month. So even though night time temperatures were still in the low 30’s and high 20’s we headed back to Chandler, AZ to get the work done.  Got there for our appointment and the guy says, sorry our lift broke when we off-loaded the RV before you, all we can do is the oil change!  So, after they did that, we headed for our favorite AZ state park Catalina outside of Tucson where we are familiar with the MB dealer in town.  Loving this area that we consider a MVL (must visit list) place (last year’s Catalina blog) we settled in to do some hiking, do the drive up Mt.Lemmon and welcome in the New Year. Our water line only froze twice 🙂

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See us having fun on our hike?

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Windy Point Overlook on the Mt. Lemmon summit drive.

BTW, to our Sprinter Skinny Winnie friends, we were impressed with Chandler MB and we’ve dealt with Tucson MB twice now and trust them although so far they are the most expensive MB dealer we’ve ever encountered.  😦

Braving the cold we decided to visit some or our favorite MVL places from last winter.  We popped down to Bisbee (where it poured cold rain) planning on dinner and drinks at the wonderful Santiago’s only to find them closed due to a water main break outside their door. We did however have a delightful afternoon (beer was involved) at the Old Bisbee Brewing Company and of course breakfast at the Bisbee Breakfast Club.

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From our Picacho Peak State Park campsite looking across the valley, a clearing storm over the Picacho Mountains gave us a wonderful gift.

We revisited another one of Arizona’s wonderful state parks Picacho Peak State Park where I went on a steep, rocky, wonderful hike up the mountain without Ed who was suffering from a weak knee problem.

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Marti on her solo hike…

From there down to quiet little Ajo and the Shadow Ridge RV Resort (resort, no, but nice and a good laundry) where part of the fun is hearing and seeing the “boys out to play” in their A10 Warthogs and other really cool jets over the Barry Goldwater Air Force Range.

With the temps once more heading down into the high 20’s we’ve packed up again heading west where it’s a bit better.  Next post will be coming soon…..really….you’ll be surprised 🙂







 

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Pusch Ridge Wilderness Area from Catalina State Park.

 

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Saguaro Cactus family portrait.

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Bird’s nest in a saguaro cactus arm.

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Sutherland Wash in Catalina State Park.

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That’s a big Barrel Cactus…

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Hoodoos on the Mt. Lemmon summit drive.

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Picacho Mountains on Marti’s hike up the Peak trail.

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We always have gorgeous sunsets at Picacho Peak State Park.

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Tillotson Peak in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument south of Ajo, Arizona.

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Lots of very sticky sharp things on a Saguaro Cactus.

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Palo Verde trees have green bark which does the photosynthesis usually done by leaves. They also have leaves which drop in winter.

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Does this rock make me look fat?

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Gniess rock.

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Nice flower.

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One last photo of the Picacho Mountains with I-10.

.

 

 

Why Not and Beyond

14 Saturday Feb 2015

Posted by Ed and Marti Kirkpatrick in Travels

≈ 15 Comments

Tags

Arizona, Besh Ba Gowah, boondocking, Border Patrol, Box Canyon, Catalina State Park, Globe AZ, Kartchner Caverns, Organ Pipe Cactus, Titan Missles, Why AZ

The beauty and wildness and ever changing landscape in the bit of Arizona we’ve been traveling is wonderful. With elevation changes and just curves in the road, the geology and flora changes, often radically. The minerals in the rock means that color variations can be both subtle and stark, but also beautiful. Those minerals also mean there are mines all over the state and most are huge and very destructive. We know we need the materials, but we also believe our stewardship of this land means we must not take and not repair regardless of inconvenience or cost.

Mining operations and tailings just outside of Globe, Arizona

Mining operations and tailings just outside of Globe, Arizona

So hang onto your hat as we cover a lot of ground and add places to your MVL (MUST VISIT LIST 🙂 )!!

Local Mercantile, gas station, restaurant and Mexican Insurance dealer.

Local Mercantile, gas station, restaurant and Mexican Insurance dealer.

We did our first boondocking outside of Why, AZ, a tiny blink of a town at the “Y” intersections of State Hwy 85 and 86. The USPS being what they are would not let the local folks have the name Y for their town because a town has to have at least 3 letters…go figure …hence…Why. Boondocking mostly on BLM land (Bureau of Land Management), National Forests, State Land Trust lands means 98% of the time, no fees, no hook-ups (water, electric, sewer) and no “real” camping sites. Just pick an obviously used spot (worn, probably with a stone fire ring) and claim it as your own, but not too close to your neighbors if there happens to be some, and at Why there were. We found a nice spot with a tree and heard our first coyotes….all good.

Full Moon, Gunsight Wash, boondocking on BLM land outside of Why, AZ

Full Moon, Gunsight Wash, boondocking on BLM land outside of Why, AZ

By the way, we have been told that the only Kyy-Oh-Tee is the one named Wiley. A hard habit to break, the proper pronunciation is Kyy-Oat.

We visited Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument which shares a long border with Mexico. The Border Patrol are ALL OVER southern Arizona and we often go through their road check points. Here in Organ Pipe we chatted with two officers heading out on horseback to do their thing. These horses are wild mustangs who are naturally strong and “smart” about the desert.   After being caught they are broken & trained by prison inmates and then given to the USBP.

Border Patrol on horseback

Border Patrol on horseback

Smuggling Sign

At the Visitors Center, we had to talk our way into being allowed to take our RV (technically 3 feet too long) onto one of the two loop roads through the park. It’s beautiful and we had a great time. Put on your MUST VISIT LIST. (but only in a car).

Organ Pipe Cristate

Organ Pipe Cactus with cristate growth

Organ Pipe Road

Organ Pipe Cactus loop road

Arch Close up

Two arches

On our way to Painted Rocks we passed through Gila Bend… don’t bother with the town but west of there is the Solana Generating Station and miles and miles of irrigated alfalfa fields that are next to a huge factory dairy cow operation.

Solana Generating Station

Painted Rock

Solana Generating Station and a Painted Rock

Then we reversed directions and went east over RT 238 to Maricopa and eventually to AZ 60 and the Tonto National Forest for the night. Put this National Forest on your MVL!! Just beautiful!! We boondocked at Oak Flat Campground.

Oak Flats Campsite

Oak Flats Campsite

This land is sacred to the Apache and is under direct attack by the mining interests and sneaky political tactics. In fact the evening we were there while out for our walk we passed a young Indian doing some quiet ceremony next to a huge “bowl” in the local landscape. The place just felt special.

We went to Globe for lunch and happened into the Drift Inn, a local saloon that’s been in business since 1902 and is quite colorful.

Also in Globe we went to the Besh Ba Gowah Ruins. This small ancient pueblo and the little museum are excellent and should be on your MVL.

Besh Ba Gowash

Besh Ba Gowash

Being children in the 1950’s/’60’s we know all about “duck and cover” and the next day to our surprise we saw a sign for the Titan Missile Museum. Of course we had to visit. It holds the very last of 54 Titan II Ballistic Missiles in its silo! Yes, not only disarmed but with a hole cut in the cone so the world’s satellites can see that it is! Titan Missle NoseThe installation is exactly as it was when it was operational (minus the bomb and rocket fuel) and part of the tour includes a simulated (to an extent) launching of the missile. The tour guide randomly picks someone to be Commander, one of the two people who had to turn the launch keys. As it turns out the woman who “helped” launch the missile emigrated from the Soviet Union 30 years ago! She admitted to us later she was a little freaked out by the whole launch experience. Put this tour on your MVL, very interesting.

Box Canyon Road (2)

Box Canyon Road

We drove across the Box Canyon Rd Hwy 62 to Sonoita. While in hindsight we know we were foolhardy to have taken this 23 mile narrow, windy, twisty dirt road, the drive was magnificent and we survived! At the top of the canyon at 4000 ft. elevation, the surprise is that there are extensive grass lands and cattle ranches across large rolling hills. It is very pretty and a welcomed change from cactus and barren dust and rock.

High Plains Grassland

High Plains Grassland

The last tour we’ve done was at the Kartchner Caverns State Park, which by the way is a lovely campground. These unknown caverns were discovered in 1974 by two young spelunkers, who not only kept this living cave’s location secret but managed over the course of 14 years to keep their find hidden from the general public. Along with the Kartchner family they persuaded the State to buy the land from the family and with huge expense and creativity to safely open it to the public while preserving its pristine and unique formations. Ed and I both separately and together did some caving in our teens and 20’s we cannot believe the beauty of the place and the vast amount of effort it took to open it to tours while not inhibiting or altering its continued growth! It’s an absolutely fabulous story and an extremely beautiful cave. Put this on your MUST VISIT LIST!!! (sorry, no photos allowed but the web link will show you some)

We are back at Catalina State Park where after the rains of two weeks ago the hills are actually showing some green.  We are here for a few days of R&R and housekeeping chores. We even went to an RV show! We’re loving Arizona and hope you’re enjoying Ed’s photographs.


To replace our much missed plastic yard flamingo, our kids made and gave us these stick-on variety to decorate the RV.  We love them. Kids and flamingos both.

To replace our much missed plastic yard flamingo, our kids made and gave us these stick-on variety to decorate the RV. We love them. Kids and flamingos both.

Interior Besh Ba Gowah

"Sphinx" Rock

Interior Besh Ba Gowah and “Sphinx” Rock in Organ Pipe

Picnic spot at the end of Box Canyon Road

Picnic spot at the end of Box Canyon Road

Chain Fruit Cholla (Choyyah)

Chain Fruit Cholla (Choyyah)

Launch Control

Launch Control

Oak Flats Pond 1

Oak Flats Pond

Rock Strata on Gila River-Panorama web

Gila River Cliffs Rock Strata

Box Canyon Road Panorama

Box Canyon Grasslands

Catalina State Park and The Hike.

31 Saturday Jan 2015

Posted by Ed and Marti Kirkpatrick in Travels

≈ 10 Comments

Tags

Arizona, Biosphere 2, boondocking, Catalina State Park, Chiricahua Desert Museum, rattlesnakes, Romero Canyon, Romero Pools, Tucson

Today in the desert wet wet wet.

Today in the desert wet, wet, wet.

Today, Friday we are just north of Tucson at the Catalina State Park in the Coronado National Forest, which also includes the Pusch Ridge Wilderness Area. We have been here since Monday and keep extending our stay. Weather has been really great for a few days (not to rub it in) but today we are having heavy showers. It rained really hard all night last night too, but we did hear coyotes for the first time. That was really cool!

We were excited to realize that Biosphere 2 which we had heard about when the whole experiment started and “failed” back in the early 1990’s, was just down the road 18 miles. The concept and execution was incredible and its evolution over the years has been remarkable. Our tour guide was very enthusiastic and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. So much so that when we left we were the last car in the lot and the gates were closed! Thank goodness they open out automatically! Put this on your must visit list.

Wednesday, Marti marched us up the Romero Canyon Trail here at the park nearly 3.6 miles (that’s 7.1 miles round trip by our Garmin) with an elevation climb of over 1000 ft. to a place called Romero Pools, elevation 3700ft. 20150128-_EKP0003

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Ed poolside.

These are nice deep pools of cold, cold mountain water draining down from the peaks and we just had to soak our hot, tired feet. There was flotsam in the trees about eight feet up so clearly an incredible amount of water can come crashing down this canyon.   It’s amazing there can be so much water in this dry environment. A local gentleman told us they’ve had so much rain this year they are expecting a wonderful cactus bloom starting next month, we’ll have to come back.

We left the trail head about 10AM and got back around 5PM nearly totally exhausted. This was a hard, hard hike but the landscape and views … just stunning. We also saw a deer, two Golden Eagles soaring, a lizard, two boatmen and assorted little songbirds, (no partridges in a pear tree). We did not see any mountain lions, coyotes or big horn sheep.

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Romero Canyon Pools

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… and this is only half-way to the pools…

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Cute little fern in a crevice. Marti likes them same as kittens…

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Cool side (as in temperature) of the mountains.

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See the moon? It works better in black and white…

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We’ve seen a very pretty plant called Manzanita (Little Apple) which is everywhere, but so far only in bloom at the higher altitudes and covered with honeybees! The fragrant blossoms smell just like honey. In fact, we have seen loads of honeybees here in the desert where there is no one to poison them.

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Manzanita to the right of the trail.

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Marti and Ed wave Hi!

Marti Hiking Romero Pools

Along the trail.

Another day’s outing was the Arizona/Sonora Desert Museum. While slightly interesting the explanation signage gave little actual information. Plus it was very crowded; at least it seemed so after our day in the hills. In general for our $36 we were not impressed, maybe being spoiled by free access to all the Smithsonian museums back home. We do however highly recommend Chiricahua Desert Museum on NM Highway 80. We stopped here a week or so back and it’s well worth the $5 each. Put it on your must visit list.

We are planning to leave here Monday heading out to a BLM (Bureau of Land Management) area near Why, Arizona, to boondock. Boondocking merits its own post but the short of it is camping on public land with no electric, water or sewer hookups, or anything else for that matter.

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