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Arizona ~ Old and New Favorite Places

17 Sunday Jun 2018

Posted by Ed and Marti Kirkpatrick in Bushes and Blooms, Travels

≈ 11 Comments

Tags

#Prescott Arizona, Arizona, Bonito Campground, boondocking, Catalina State Park, Flagstaff, Lowell Observatory, Sunset Crater, Tucson, Wupatki

Hi there~ It has been many weeks since our last post but we have excuses 🙂 Our main plan for this summer’s adventure is what I have been calling the “middle bits”.  The areas of southern Utah: Bryce, Grand Staircase – Escalante, Capital Reef, Canyonlands, Arches, Moab and on north somewhere.  WELLLL… even though this post isn’t about any of those places, we have in fact done a bit of the above and there will be a post about that coming soon along with Ed’s wonderful photos.  The excuse for the delay is twofold. First, southern Utah is for all practical purposes off the grid (cell phones included) and we couldn’t do a post. And second, there’s the issue of Ed’s totally unexpected emergency detached retina eye surgery complete with a 2-week restriction on not only travel but reading and using his laptop!  So apologies for the delay and we hope you enjoy the below 🙂  Oh, and yes he’s doing well thank you!                                       *************************************************************

After a quiet night’s sleep at Black Jack Campground we headed on down Rt 78 which for a ways goes through some pretty mountain country

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78 outside of Blackjack and the forest.

but soon opens up and isn’t as nice. We picked up US 191 heading for Safford, (which is sorry to say downright ugly) and then onto Interstate 10.  We had planned to drop south to one of our favorite places, Bisbee, AZ  but when I phoned the campground in town they said they were completely booked.  Soooo we decided to head on to Oro Valley just north of Tucson and one of our other favorite spots, Catalina State Park, but when I phoned they also were full!  Our nonstop good luck seemed to be on hold, (it was Friday night and weekends are often busier) so we headed for Gilbert Ray Campground just west of Tucson where it’s first come first served and we hoped not full.

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Just behind our campsite at Gilbert Ray where it was not full, but in fact almost empty.  Over in front of those mountains is Old Tucson which was built to make movies and has only expanded and grown with many more movies and TV shows. You can take a tour but we didn’t.

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We took a short walk at Gilbert Ray to enjoy the cacti just coming into bloom.  This is a Cholla (choyya) a group of cactus that is perhaps Marti’s favorite.

Every time we’ve been in the Tucson area we’ve planned to go to the Pima Air & Space Museum not for the museum as much as the airplane boneyard.  This time, other than new tennis shoes for me that was the only thing specifically on our MVL (Must Visit List).   We have really been enjoying not planning things out much (or at all) this year but sometimes a little advance research is highly recommended.  Turns out one CAN NOT visit without a 10 BUSINESS DAY ADVANCE REGISTRATION!!!  We have NO IDEA what this is about but find it absolutely ridiculous.  Consequently, it will remain on our MVL for another time.  😦

We ran errands, did some shopping, (did not find my tennis shoes at Fleet Feet but they’re on hold for me in Scottsdale), and had a good steak dinner at The Keg where we always go when in Catalina, where a camping spot had opened up on Saturday 🙂  Interesting side note:  The Keg was the name of a steak restaurant we went to in St. John’s, Newfoundland last summer, so we did some checking.  Not only are they the same, it’s a Canadian company.  The one in Oro Valley is better 🙂

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Other than hiking, our favorite thing to do at Catalina is to watch the stars come out and if we are there at the right time of the month, the moonrise over the Santa Catalina Mountains. For my photographer friends, this is hand-held at 1/10 second ISO 1600, just sayin’. 🙂

Wanting to get on north but also working out a plan to catch up with fellow RV full-timer friend Suzanne (who we last saw in St. John’s) we headed for Prescott another of our favorite places.

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Looking back towards Thumb Butte (on the right) and the Prescott Valley on the left we took a little walk one day.

We did a couple of our usuals, Bill’s Pizza, the Phippen Museum plus a nice visit with Suzanne and then headed for Flagstaff, one of my favorite places.

In Flagstaff, we did a few errands, had lunch at the Bun Huggers which was recommended on roadfood.com… don’t bother, it’s just a very mediocre burger and then went to see the Lowell Observatory.  This place has been on our list each time we’ve visited Flagstaff and since we’ve managed to do a couple of “looking at space” things this trip we made sure to go.  The very wealthy Percival Lowell was awarded a Harvard degree with distinction in mathematics in 1876 and then went on to running a cotton mill for 6 years.  For most of the 1880’s he traveled and lived in the Far East returning to the US in 1893. Fascinated with Mars and wanting to study it extensively, he selected a site (the first time anyone had purposely done so) with elevation, remote and most always clear skies and established his personal observatory at Flagstaff, Arizona Territory in 1894.

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The 13″ Astrograph, a type of telescope used to take pictures only was used to discover Pluto in 1930. Note the wooden film plate at the bottom.

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An 11×14 BW film was used by Clyde Tombaugh in 1930 to make comparative images to note that what turned out to be the object we call Pluto was moving across the star field which does not move.

A note about camping in the Flagstaff area:  The first night we checked a couple boondocking areas.  Probably in response to the fire ban and extreme dry conditions we found that a number of the forest service roads, including FS 6051 were blocked.  We did go out an unmarked FS road (off Snow Bowl Rd) where we saw a couple of folks but it was VERY rough and VERY unlevel.

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We did enjoy the drive up the Snow Bowl road to over 9000 ft. elevation and the ski area where there was not quite enough snow to ski down the mountain.

 

We also checked the boondocking site over by Walnut Canyon and it’s not very level and not pretty, so not for us. We did stay in a spot way out the fairly rough Naval Observatory Road that worked, but I would not take anything much bigger than us past the first section.

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Tucked in the trees off of Naval Observatory road we boondocked overnight and Ed discovered a set of handcuffs burned up in the firepit.  I kid you not!

Next morning we had a check engine light on and very little power but it was Sunday and Mercedes-Benz of Flagstaff was closed. We checked into Greer’s Pine Shadows where we stayed once before.  NEVER stay here!!  They have no dump station, no showers or bathrooms, sites are tight, mostly permanent folks…. we knew all that from before, but we needed a place.  We set up and after a bit Ed went out, raised the hood and checked the oil dip stick and put it back.  He had no tools out anywhere just a rag in his hand as he stood looking at the engine.  A man from the office (across from us) comes blasting out the door screaming at Ed that they don’t allow any mechanical work being done.  Ed say’s “I’m just looking at my engine!”  This jerk yells “Don’t give me no lip, I’m the manager and I’ll throw your ass out of here!”  Ed, pretty sure the guy might slug him next, shuts the hood and comes in the RV.

Next morning first thing, we drove to Mercedes-Benz of Flagstaff, getting there just after they opened. They said they make a point of trying to get travelers in and out fast.  They not only get to us faster than they said they could, they diagnosed the problem, fixed it for cheaper than we expected and sent us on our way.  Good folks!

We stayed the next couple of nights at the NFS Bonito Campground just outside of Sunset Crater.  It is a wonderful, dry, first come first served campground, where there are water spigots, nice bathrooms and very few folks, at least when we were there. 🙂

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Our camping spot next to the lava field at Bonito Campground.  

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That knob on the right between the trees is Sunset Crater in the setting Sun. This short walk is just beyond our campsite.  

We had explored the Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument following the 35-mile loop road around to the far end at Wupatki National Monument back in 2015.  This time we explored the ruins of Wupatki and suggest them, and this whole area, for your MVL.

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The Citadel is the first large ruin one comes to on the loop road from the north entrance. On top of a small hill with a view of the surrounding countryside, 800 years ago the Sinagua culture lived here.

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Looking out from atop the Citadel there are in this photograph ruins of eight other smaller pueblos.  Yes, Marti found them but they are very hard to spot.

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Further down the loop road, Marti walked out to the two dwellings on either side of Box Canyon.  The San Francisco Mountains and Humphrey’s Peak are in the background.

Note: Since we were here and in the last couple of weeks a great deal of Arizona including areas covered in this post are under complete fire bans including camping and hiking due to the extreme drought.




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78 continues beautifully down to the valley and the unfortunately ugly Safford, Arizona.  

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Yet another kind of cholla budding into flower at Gilbert Ray.

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Guess what…?  more Cholla. There are so many different varieties.

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Most plants in the desert can hurt you a little or a lot, but the flowers are magnificent.

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The tall cacti, Suguaro are one our favorites because their expressive arm contortions are so much fun and now they even have flowers.  This is the first time we have seen them in bloom.

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Thumb Butte in the distance west of Prescott, Arizona.

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If you just go for a small walk out of the campground into the forest and the wonderful lava fields at Bonito, particularly as the Sun is setting, you too can revel in the beauty left by the incredible forces of Mother Earth.

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Such peace many centuries after such violence.

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A short hike into the cinders. Life returns via a bazillion pine cones.

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Marti sees creatures everywhere.  Ed, however, being more practical wonders who or what is under that big volcanic rock that fell out of the sky one day about 900 years ago.

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Further beyond the Box Canyon dwellings is the beautiful Lomaki Pueblo.

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Taken from the Wupaki National Monument loop road, the San Francisco Mountains with Flagstaff, Arizona and the Snow Bowl ski area on the other side.

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Wukoki Pueblo. Occupied from between 1120 and 1210 AD this unusual three-story tall pueblo sits atop Moenkopi Sandstone.

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It is hard at first to visually discern where the natural stone outcropping ends and the cut stone masonry begins.  The precision stonework is astonishing.  Perfectly square, plumb corners, built by “primitive” people. They must have had some understanding of basic geometry.

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Pardon Mart’s butt.

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Room interior that shows holes for floor/ceiling joists in the tower room.

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Remaining wood from the poles used as joists.

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Wupatki Pueblo. The largest complex in the area.

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Comprising over 100 rooms, a community room and a ball court, Wupatki is an extremely well preserved and extensive complex.

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We say goodbye for now as Ed enjoys his wine while cooking dinner and watching the Sun set.

Hello from Maryland!! 

05 Tuesday Apr 2016

Posted by Ed and Marti Kirkpatrick in Bushes and Blooms, Travels

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

boondocking, California, Culp Valley, Joshua Tree National Park, Jumbo Rocks, Phainopepla, Ryan Ranch

We have obviously covered a great deal of country since our visit to Death Valley.  However, before we knew we had to make this run home, we did get to boondock (camping with no water, electric, sewer hookups) in two places we couldn’t manage last year.  First in the beautiful Culp Valley high above Borrego Springs CA and then Joshua Tree National Park CA. We spent four terrific days at each location and had lots of delightful hikes and gorgeous starry nights.  We recommend both for your MVL (Must Visit List), but stay away on weekends and go preferably in February when both places can be pretty cold at night, but much less crowded.

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Looking back into the Culp Valley campground.

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The ruins of Ryan Ranch (on the left) near the Ryan campground in Joshua Tree National Park.

After Joshua Tree we slipped down to Desert Hot Springs for some laundry chores, our posting of the 2nd Death Valley installment, and a long soak in said hot springs 🙂   It was during this time we received the news that my brother Bruce had passed away from complications of Parkinson’s Disease.   He and his wife Luanne lived in The Villages in Florida, but he was to be buried back home in Darnestown, Maryland and we had four weeks to make the trip home.

So over the course of 3 weeks we worked our way home stopping at a lot of places we have blogged about before; Prescott, Arizona,  Catalina State Park in the Oro Valley outside of Tucson as well as quirky little Bisbee in southeast Arizona. We did a short visit with our dear kids in Austin and Bastrop TX. Then stopped off in New Orleans where we got to watch the anything goes goings-on for St. Patrick’s Day (oh my, those tiny green stars were paint, not pasties!) and on home via Ed’s sister Susan’s in Tucker, GA.

During this drive back east we also received the sad news of the death of our best man (so many, many years ago) Bruce Will, a back home walking friend Leslie Schwartz, and Ed’s Aunt Lois!  An incredible reminder to do all those things you’ve always wanted to but don’t think you have time for, and most importantly, tell those you love “I LOVE YOU” at every opportunity!

We will be hanging around the mid Atlantic for about a month (we’ll do a post I’m sure) and then plan to head towards the Pacific Northwest, via what route we haven’t figured out yet, but you’ll be the first to know! 🙂




 

20160229-A05_Bruce_DeppaWhen I was little of course I knew I had two brothers who were older than me, but what I could not seem to grasp was how to differentiate between the older and the even older, so, to me, Roy was my “little” brother and Bruce was my “big” brother….and OH what a big brother he was!

He could walk on his hands around the yard.

He could crack a bull whip and flip me in the air.

During his college years he’d bring his dates home for Sunday dinner.  It was a heck of a lot cheaper than restaurants and if they’d already met the folks on the first date, well, they sure couldn’t read anything into future visits!  He would always ask me, 10, 11 year old ME, what I thought of the girls he’d brought home!  AND, he REALLY listened to what I had to say!

When I was in high school and shall we say a little much for Mom & Dad to understand (and vice versa), I’d go to Bruce for someone I knew would listen to my frustrations, dreams, raging and mediocre poetry!

He would babysit our very precocious toddler Scott so Ed and I could have a little “us time”… and he must have set a land speed record getting to us when Scott was killed in Iraq.

Bruce always woke with a smile on his face, excited about the new day.

Bruce never met a stranger.

Bruce was kind, understanding, intelligent, interested in everything and everyone.

Bruce was my big brother.




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Clearing storm early one morning at Culp Valley.

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Looking down to Borrego Springs, California from above the Culp Valley.

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Hiking in Culp Valley on a windy day.

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The Cat Claw bush and Ed never did make friends… He has another name for it but this is a family blog.

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A Joshua Tree at Joshua Tree.

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Climbers scaling Headstone Rock at Ryan Ranch.  Joshua Tree is a very popular destination for climbing and bouldering.

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The Joshua trees were just coming into bloom.

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Joshua Tree Panorama.

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Marti left me on a rock pile and went off to look at these rocks.

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While she was away I photographed some of the local flora. It’s called Mickey Mouse Prickly Pear.

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Jumbo Rocks hike.

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Our neighbors, Kimberley and Emily were hiking the California Hiking and Riding Trail.

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Jumbo rocks Campground in Joshua Tree.

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Our new friend a Phainopepla, (FAY no PEP la).

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Mistletoe, the mass of reddish brown on the left is the Phainopepla’s favorite food.  The literature says he will eat 1300 of those berries a day.  We’re not sure… and who counted all those berries anyway.

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Evening light at the end of our hike at Jumbo Rocks.

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More of those Shadow People.

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On the way out of Joshua Tree National Park. What a great name.

#boondocking, #California, #Culp Valley, #Joshua Tree National Park, #Jumbo Rocks, #Phainopepla, #Ryan Ranch

 

Death Valley ~ Part Three

08 Tuesday Mar 2016

Posted by Ed and Marti Kirkpatrick in Bushes and Blooms, Travels

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

California, Death Valley, Desert Gold, Emigrant Canyon, Furnace Creek, Kit Fox Hills, Titus Canyon

This final posting on our wonderful visit to the remarkable Death Valley is a collection of Ed’s photographs mostly from our last day there.   We had a terrific time and will get back someday hopefully with a jeep, stronger legs and reopened roads!  If at all possible, please put Death Valley National Park on your Must Visit List.  Oh and if you do, I suggest An Introduction to the Geology of Death Valley by Michael Collier as a very informative read.  You can pick it up at the visitor center in Furnace Creek.




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Just off the road to Scotty’s Castle are the Kit Fox Hills in the Grapevine Mountains.

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Desert Gold, you cannot help but smile when you see these flowers and since we were there,  there has been a massive bloom of them.

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Evening along Badwater Road.

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This guy and his buddy were entirely too friendly and healthy for wild animals.  The tourists must be feeding them.

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Titus Canyon meanders through some very ancient rock formations.  Here, the sunlight reflects off the mountains beautifully lighting this face.

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Titus Canyon in the Grapevine Mountains.  Although the mountain range was geologically speaking uplifted quite recently most of the rocks that make up the range are over half a billion years old. This road runs 24 miles one-way from Rhyolite, Nevada to the exit in Death Valley, California.  From there we hiked back up the road about two miles.

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A formation of Megabreccia or the Jigsaw as it is known locally.

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Travertine (Ed is pretty sure but invites comment from someone who knows better).  There was lots of it in Titus Canyon.

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In Titus Canyon, fractured quartz  with a reddish/pink mineral (feldspar?) intrusion that gives it this pattern.  This piece is about the size of a soccer ball.

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Mysterious pot-holes in the floor of Panamint Valley.

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Desert Sand Verbena, L                        Brown-eyed Evening Primrose, R

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A spreading bloom of Desert Gold paints the alluvial fan of the Black Mountains near Ashford Mill.

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Marti climbed up to an abandoned mine to see what she could see and took this photo looking back at our rig on Emigrant Canyon Road in the Panamint Mountain Range.

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Here’s the mine.  She really wanted to go in but promised she wouldn’t.

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Looking south across the Panamint mountains to Telescope Peak, 11,049 feet.

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At the top of Emigrant Canyon in the pass elevation 5318 feet.

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HWY 190 looking east back down eight miles to Stovepipe Wells from Emigrant Canyon Road.

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On our way back to our campsite at Furnace Creek and it’s almost cocktail time…

 

Arizona and Unfriendly Weather

20 Wednesday Jan 2016

Posted by Ed and Marti Kirkpatrick in Bushes and Blooms, Travels

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Ajo, Arizona, Bisbee Arizona, Catalina State Park, Mt. Lemmon, Organ Pipe Cactus, Picacho Peak

Ed and I have joked for years that we’re a bad/weird weather magnet.  Back in the 70’s when we tent camped a lot it always seemed to rain or snow on us and last year we often seemed to drag rain and snow along with us, but of course southern California loved us.  This year it seems abnormally cold temperatures are the camping surprise we’re dealing with.  In fact the temps were so cold and windy heading out of Texas into New Mexico and Arizona that we fled to the border with California in a 3 day hard driving marathon. Landing on Christmas Eve at Cattail Cove State Park just outside Lake Havasu City, AZ we settled in for a few days of wind and cold nights.  While like all the Arizona State Parks we’ve stayed at, Cattail Cove is very nice and we did see a Big Horn Sheep, neither of us sees much point in making this area a destination. 20151227-_EKP4670 Lake Havasu City was developer Robert McCulloch’s dream based on the recreational draw of the dammed Colorado River and The London Bridge which he purchased, disassembled, shipped and reassembled here as a tourist attraction in 1971. I remember we laughed about this when it happened, and now that we’ve seen it we’re still shaking our heads.20151227-_EKP4665-Pano

We had a looming problem in that our little home’s engine was way overdue for its 40,000 mile check-up and being a Mercedes Benz with each additional 20 miles it beeped and sent us a “HEY” message.  We contacted the nearest California MB Sprinter dealers and they said nope, no RV’s can’t help you or sure, in a month. So even though night time temperatures were still in the low 30’s and high 20’s we headed back to Chandler, AZ to get the work done.  Got there for our appointment and the guy says, sorry our lift broke when we off-loaded the RV before you, all we can do is the oil change!  So, after they did that, we headed for our favorite AZ state park Catalina outside of Tucson where we are familiar with the MB dealer in town.  Loving this area that we consider a MVL (must visit list) place (last year’s Catalina blog) we settled in to do some hiking, do the drive up Mt.Lemmon and welcome in the New Year. Our water line only froze twice 🙂

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See us having fun on our hike?

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Windy Point Overlook on the Mt. Lemmon summit drive.

BTW, to our Sprinter Skinny Winnie friends, we were impressed with Chandler MB and we’ve dealt with Tucson MB twice now and trust them although so far they are the most expensive MB dealer we’ve ever encountered.  😦

Braving the cold we decided to visit some or our favorite MVL places from last winter.  We popped down to Bisbee (where it poured cold rain) planning on dinner and drinks at the wonderful Santiago’s only to find them closed due to a water main break outside their door. We did however have a delightful afternoon (beer was involved) at the Old Bisbee Brewing Company and of course breakfast at the Bisbee Breakfast Club.

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From our Picacho Peak State Park campsite looking across the valley, a clearing storm over the Picacho Mountains gave us a wonderful gift.

We revisited another one of Arizona’s wonderful state parks Picacho Peak State Park where I went on a steep, rocky, wonderful hike up the mountain without Ed who was suffering from a weak knee problem.

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Marti on her solo hike…

From there down to quiet little Ajo and the Shadow Ridge RV Resort (resort, no, but nice and a good laundry) where part of the fun is hearing and seeing the “boys out to play” in their A10 Warthogs and other really cool jets over the Barry Goldwater Air Force Range.

With the temps once more heading down into the high 20’s we’ve packed up again heading west where it’s a bit better.  Next post will be coming soon…..really….you’ll be surprised 🙂







 

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Pusch Ridge Wilderness Area from Catalina State Park.

 

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Saguaro Cactus family portrait.

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Bird’s nest in a saguaro cactus arm.

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Sutherland Wash in Catalina State Park.

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That’s a big Barrel Cactus…

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Hoodoos on the Mt. Lemmon summit drive.

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Picacho Mountains on Marti’s hike up the Peak trail.

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We always have gorgeous sunsets at Picacho Peak State Park.

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Tillotson Peak in Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument south of Ajo, Arizona.

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Lots of very sticky sharp things on a Saguaro Cactus.

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Palo Verde trees have green bark which does the photosynthesis usually done by leaves. They also have leaves which drop in winter.

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Does this rock make me look fat?

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Gniess rock.

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Nice flower.

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One last photo of the Picacho Mountains with I-10.

.

 

 

Desert Bloomers

13 Friday Mar 2015

Posted by Ed and Marti Kirkpatrick in Bushes and Blooms

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Arizona, desert wildflowers, Picacho Peak

If you’ve been following our postings you know there has been some considerable rain in Arizona and from what the locals have told us it’s been wet all winter (by their standards) and they predicted an excellent desert spring bloom. They were right! The flowers started popping a couple of weeks ago and it’s only getting better as the days get longer and warmer. The effects of water, sunlight, wind and elevation on the earth’s surface is accentuated in the desert and it’s been great fun seeing how these elements affect the growth and blooming of the astonishing array of plant life. Suddenly we’re seeing green creeping up the mountainsides and flowers bursting forth in little nooks and crannies as well as in vast blankets of blooms.   Every turn produces another little gem we’ve not seen before. While we know it’s only just begun we want to share with you some of the beauty of the spring time desert. Enjoy!

Brittlebush and Lupine

Brittlebush and Lupine

Lyreleaf Jewelflower

Lyreleaf Jewelflower

Desert Mallow

Desert Mallow

Desert Mallow

Desert Mallow

Picacho Peak Flowers-0821

Desert Mallow

Hedgehog Cactus and Lupine

Hedgehog Cactus and Lupine

Fairy Duster

Fairy Duster

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Cute but we don’t know yet…

Desert Broomrape

Desert Broomrape

White Tackstem

White Tackstem

Desert Marigold

Desert Marigold

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Common Fiddleneck

Cholla

Cholla

Arizona Poppies

Arizona Poppies

Don't know #2

Don’t know #2

Picacho Peak Poppy Field

Picacho Peak Poppy Field

Mojave Desert Star

Mojave Desert Star

Mojave Desert Star and White Tackstem

Mojave Desert Star and White Tackstem

Really pretty

Really pretty

Don't Know #3

Don’t Know #3

Arizona Poppy and Cholla

Arizona Poppy and Cholla

Mojave Desert Start, Lupine and closed Arizona Poppy

Mojave Desert Start, Lupine and closed Arizona Poppy

Roadside Arizona Poppies, Lupine and Desert Globe Mallow

Roadside Arizona Poppies, Lupine and Desert Globe Mallow

Marti hunting flowers

Marti hunting flowers

Little Dude, not a flower

Little Dude, not a flower

Picacho Peak Flower Hike

Picacho Peak Flower Hike

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john pavlovitz

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Island Girl Walkabout

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Wheeling It: Tales From a Nomadic Life

On the Road Since 2010, Traveling Across USA & Europe With Pets

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